Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and visitors alike celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Recently, Unesco honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a select list of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it becomes part of a worldwide network of over 400 cities across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "stands as proof of its centuries-old food heritage and dynamic culinary scene," as noted by a spokesperson from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this historic city is little surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, bustling, and eclectic city – the capital of India's largest state – is at last in the spotlight for what has consistently characterized its soul: an immense love for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a constant discussion from morning until going to bed in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, refined, and taken to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, merging Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the mutton galouti was invented to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely closed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just showcases fresh harvests but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on every corner, there are small establishments and carts – little-known treasures that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, presented in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and involved. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but note that their younger generation are unwilling to learn the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will motivate more people around the world to learn these stories and travel to the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
